Today in the extreme heat, it was nice having an automatic water dripper system for my TimberKing sawmill blade. This allowed me to not have to run back and forth to shut off the water each time I stopped sawing.
This is not something that you have to have, but it sure is nice to not have to make so many trips back and forth to shut off and turn back on the water valve for the dripper.
Pictured below is a simple, but very effective system I built right in my shop, and done it cheap. Most of the parts I used came from Amazon, and I had in my hands 2-3 days after ordering. Some of my sawyer friends have done very similar set ups on their mills, and I seen how nice it actually was.



The electric solenoid I wired right into my blade clutch, so that when the blade is on, the solenoid turn on for the water dripper. When the blade is off, the water is off. This is so handy, and saves tons of water and dish soap, or whatever lubricant you choose to use.
As mentioned, this is not something you have to have, but for me, it just made sense and saves not having to constantly fill my water tank and add more dish soap. I haven’t filled my water tank in over a month, and I cut all the time. This works well, in more ways than one!

Notice the orange pad over the blade that the water drips into. I made this metal block for the orange scotch brite pad to go into. This scotch brite pad helps hold water and dish soap, plus I like how it really keeps my saw blade clean.
I prefer this over the soft felt pads, because it cleans the blade much better, and it holds up well. The felt pads do saturate water/liquid better, but the scotch brite cleaning action is much better, from my personal use and testing. You will see soap bubbles on the metal block from the dawn dish soap.


Many folks like using diesel fuel instead of water and dish soap, but for me, and especially my customer, we don’t want diesel and oil stains in our high end walnut. The furniture makers and home builders that make tables, other furniture, mantels and bar tops are picky about the quality of the wood they use.
So for us, it’s water and dish soap, and in the cold weather, we use windshield washer fluid with dish soap, which prevents freezing. The absolute best liquid I’ve used is the bug formula windshield washer fluid (green in color). This stuff keeps the blade really clean, especially with sticky woods, like pine and other sappy wood. Just remember, it’s only good down to 32*, so add the -20* to it for extreme cold weather.
Everyone has their own way of doing things, and this is just ours. However, this automatic water dripper system for my TimberKing 1-1/2” sawmill blade, is one of the best additions I’ve made yet. As shown in the pictures, I tig welded a roof over the solenoid valve, to protect it from the weather. Also, shown below, is a removable front and side shield, for even more protection of these add on parts.
Parts I Used For This Project (Listed Below)…
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07X64ZN5H?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0DHCFVJM3?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007N0GRIE?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D7CZ9MZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0B6ZPRTWV?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CFDJMH4S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0DS62XQ9H?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BLC4MYLD?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CRTC7DH2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B087QBQT9M?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MTYMW13?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Listed above is all of the parts I used for this water system project. It was cheaper to order a package of several items, vs one by one. The needle valve from Zoro really allows you to dial in the amount of drips per second you want…and none of this is plastic or cheap crap. These parts will all hold up to the use, weather and dirt.
I used some steel scraps and tig welded the block for my scotch brite (orange) blade wiper pad. I drilled a 3/8” hole in the yellow guard for this block to bolt to. I moved mine in next to the guide wheel with 1/2” clearance. If you do it like this, then when you move the guide roller clear out (fully extended), then it will clear the blade drive wheel.
Remember, this is not a must for your sawmill to work as intended. However, I’ve found it helps keep the build up off the blade and a ton of water, or whatever you chose to use in your water/liquid tank.
The aluminum sheets I used to bolt everything to is optional. You can use steel, but I chose aluminum, because it doesn’t rust, and it’s what I had laying around. Amazon has aluminum coupons in many different sizes…(I used 3/16” thick), in which I’ve used on many projects. So you can always get some of those fairly inexpensive. If needed, I could always make the aluminum plate, or even this entire setup, like pictured above, if there is enough interest expressed.





I also unscrewed the cheap plastic bung valve from water tank and replaced it with brass bung and nice stainless shut off valve. Not needed, but I added a good water/liquid filter to mine to keep my electric solenoid valve and lines free of any unwanted particles that can appear occasionally. It helps the life of all working parts. This filter is K&N with stainless insides and replaceable filter cartridges.
Pictured right above here is the add in front cover I made with aluminum scraps, which bolts on and covers the solenoid from the weather and elements. Simple, but very effective…and still allows for air circulation.
Always do your best,
-Mike Pilcher

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